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Homemade Laundry Detergent

Maria Auclair

By Adam Sergott

There's a store that I recently discovered about a block away from my house that I'm super excited about. The shop's name is Unpacked Living, and their mission is to reduce plastic waste by selling plastic-free, and bulk items that reduce our dependency on single-use plastics. Their mission aligns with my values, so I've been shopping there since I discovered them. I don't need to go over the reasons why we need to use less plastic, but even though we know how harmful the consequences of using them are, markets like Unpacked Living are in short supply. So it seems that we have no other option but to buy these wasteful products. Or do we?

Shopping Intentionally with Environmentally Friendly Products in Mind

What I love about Unpacked Living is that they have eco-friendly solutions to most of my household needs. This bamboo scraper was an excellent and especially satisfying find by my stepmother. If you've ever had to scrape hardened food bits off of pots or dishes, you'll know what I'm talking about. But one aspect I'm most excited about is that they have a bulk dry goods section.

This is much the same concept as buying bulk produce at your local grocery store. But instead of taking home your fruits and veggies using your own produce bags, you bring your own containers to bring home your dry goods in. Such as the different powdered detergents and cleaners they offer (there's a bank of free containers too, if you don't have your own). And they also happen to have all the ingredients to make your own laundry detergent as well. Borax, baking soda and castile soap, and you can buy them on the cheap. Let's take a look at some of the benefits of making your own detergent and how you can support a local, small business, and reduce your dependance on plastic at the same time.

An In-depth Look at Laundry Detergents

Takeaway: Powdered laundry detergent is cheaper, and DIY detergent is not only the most cost-effective option but also the most environmentally friendly one as well. I'm using mainly these two pages for comparing the pros and cons of liquid and powdered detergents, How Stuff Works, "How Laundry Detergent Works", and Swash, "Laundry Powder Vs. Liquid Detergent: Which is Better?". There are also links to the resources I used for my research at the end of this article.

For transparency, I'm trying to make an argument for homemade powdered detergent being superior because of the financial and environmental benefits, even though both detergents are equally as effective. Also, if you're not used to critical reading, here's a guide to help you learn these skills: A Guide to Critical Reading: A Skill for Everyone, Anywhere. These are some of the best skills you'll ever learn in making informed decisions and one that was worth the price of tuition I paid for my formal education alone.

The Switch

I switched to using powdered detergent a few years ago to save money while I was paying off $126K in debt and subsequently needed all the cash I could spare. Luckily, making your own has many benefits. The cost is one, but also the environmental impact as well. I knew it to be cheaper, and remember hearing from a trusted source that when you buy liquid detergent, you're mostly paying for the price to ship water because you're using more liquid detergent than powdered per load. This made sense to me, but I wanted to find a reputable source to explain why this is the case. Let's take a look at some of the pros and cons of powdered and liquid laundry detergents that I found while doing the research for this article, and why I believe that the DIY route is the best option if you value saving money and the environment.

Liquid Vs. Powdered

Liquid

Pro: You can pretreat stains by pouring it directly onto the stain.

Pro: The detergent is already pre-dissolved.

Con: They cost more than powdered detergent.

Con: The plastic packaging isn't eco-friendly, and may not be recyclable in all areas.

Con: Liquid uses more fuel to ship because you have to use more per load, which means you need more product for the same results.

Powdered

Pro: Costs less than its liquid counterpart.

Pro: Packaging is usually made from paper, which is biodegradable.

Pro: Requires less product for the same results.

Pro: If using homemade detergent, there are fewer chemicals.

Con: If using store-bought, it may contain higher concentrations of harmful chemicals, and may be bad for septic systems and the environment.

Con: Pretreating stains with powdered detergent takes a little more effort than with liquid.

Considering the Differences

For something we've been doing for centuries, there sure is a lot of misinformation on the subject. Much of it is due to vague info from experts in the industry. Experts who ideally should have our best interests in mind, and not their bottom lines. Being dissatisfied with the quality of information I was finding, I did some research and found some things to consider when deciding what's best for your home and laundry needs. Hopefully, it'll shed some light on the muddy or untrue information floating around out there.

Cost: Homemade, powdered detergent not only costs less than buying Tide's liquid counterpart but also Tide's powdered detergent as well. This is one thing that all the sites I researched agree on. Using ingredient prices from my local grocery stores, Wegmans and Unpacked Living, also confirm this.

Tide's product, Tide Powder Laundry Detergent, Original Scent from Wegman's costs $26.99 for 143oz, the equivalent of 113 loads and uses 1.27oz/Tbsp, and costs ¢28 per load. One batch of detergent using natural ingredients from Unpacked Living and using this recipe from DIY Natural costs $22. The recipe yields 146oz, the equivalent of 115 loads, and uses 1.27 Oz/Tbsp, costing ¢.23 per load. The homemade detergent is $5 cheaper per batch and ¢.05 cheaper per load.* But if we go by Tide's website and the measuring cup that comes with the packaging, there's a considerable discrepancy.

How Much to Use?: The answer to this question depends on who is supplying the answer. Tide says to use between 60ml, little more than a quarter cup, to 90ml, more than a third of a cup, on their site for their liquid detergent. However when I checked my local grocery store, a 150oz bottle of liquid Tide says that it has 96 loads worth of detergent, which equals roughly 1.5 tbsp per load (one ounce equaling one tablespoon, of dry or liquid detergent).

Furthermore, when I checked Reddit, one person asked how much detergent to use, because their box of Tide powdered detergent says to use half a cup, or 4oz/Tbsp, according to the measurement line on the scoop that came with the detergent. Using this amount, 143oz yields 35 loads, costing ¢.75 per load. That's either $80.97 a year if you go by what's printed on the box, or $242.81 a year if you go by what's on the scoop. That's a big difference considering that the average home does about 300 loads of laundry a year.

Tide's site doesn't give measurements for their powdered detergent and instead says, "just make sure you get the dosage right". But the correct "dosage" could be anywhere from 1.5oz/Tbsp, to 4oz/Tbsp depending on where you look. Thankfully the other sites I researched were all in agreement, saying one to two Tbsp is all you need.

Using More: Tide's solution to heavier soil levels is to use more detergent. This, however, is not necessary. The common wisdom from the sites I've found while doing the research for this article, such as How Stuff Works, and Reddit, is that you only need between one or two Tbsp per load. This is the amount I've been using, and my clothes come out sufficiently clean.

Hard Water: Tide's site says that powder detergent does not work well in hard water, and How Stuff Works' site agrees, saying builders are needed in order for powder detergent to be more effective in hard water. But when I researched builders, I learned that borax, one of the three, main ingredients in homemade laundry detergent, is a water softer. The Spruce says to use a third more borax in the recipe to solve hard water issues. And even with this addition, you're still paying less than if you were to follow Tide's measurements for detergent amounts per load. Swash's and Tide's sites avoid talking about builders entirely. Their solution to manage hard water is to simply use more detergent. Problem solved, but a costly solution.

Septic Systems: Most of the sites I researched agree that powdered detergents can be damaging to septic systems, resulting in a bacteria deficiency, and costly buildup. Though again, while looking into ways to avoid this problem, sites such as EcoCare suggest using detergents without chlorine and surfactants. Two chemicals that homemade laundry detergent don't have.

Chemical Toxicity: Brand name detergents use many chemicals that are toxic to humans and the environment, according to MADE SAFE's website. a company dedicated to promoting safer and greener ways of living. They explain that chemicals such as ethoxylated Ingredients, surfactants, and a variety of undisclosed ingredients, are known to cause cancer in humans, and harm wildlife and the environment.

Knowing what we know and the benefits of making your own, natural laundry detergent, i.e. using ingredients that are safe for people, pets, and the environment and less expensive than brand names, you may be wondering "How can I make the switch?" Below is a recipe I've modified from DIY Natural's site, that I'm using in my home, and some tips to help you on your way to DIYing your own detergent.

Homemade Laundry Detergent

This is my go-to recipe for homemade laundry detergent, modified from DIY Natural's site. It uses only four, natural ingredients that are non-toxic for people, pets and the environment.

⏱️Prep Time:
15 Minutes

🥛Total Yield:
146oz | 97 Loads

🧺One Load=
1.5oz | Tbsp

💰Total Cost:
$22

Ingredients

  • 8cps | 65 oz, Borax
  • 7cps | 55oz, Washing or Baking Soda
  • 4, 4oz Bars, Kirk's Castile Bar Soap*
  • 25 - 35 Drops, Essential Oils

Directions

  1. Using the largest sized holes on a box grater or food processor, grate the bar soap into small flakes.
  2. Place all ingredients in a gallon container, first the borax, followed by the washing or baking soda, grated soap and the essential oils, if using.
  3. Cover the container and shake until all ingredients are thoroughly combined. About two minutes.
  4. Your Laundry detergent is now ready to use!

Notes: I used weights from boxes of Borax: 20 Mule Team 65oz, Arm & Hammer, Washing Soda 55oz, and Kirks, Castile Soap Bars 4oz to get the total yield in ounces. If you don't have a bulk supply store near you, these products, in the above weights and packages, are easily found at your local grocery store.

*You can sub Kirks bar soap for Ivory Bar Soap, Fels Napa Laundry bar, and Dr. Bronner's Castile bar Soap.

Tips for Getting the Most From Your Homemade Detergent & General Upkeep of Your Machine

Below are some tips for getting the most out of your detergent and laundry routine, and keeping your machine in good health. From natural fabric softeners to brightening your garments colors, there's plenty of info here to get the most from your wash.

Cleaning Mineral Deposits: The Spruce explains how to flush hard water deposits and mineral buildup by cleaning your machine with vinegar. This will keep your machine running smoothly if you live in an area with hard water. All you have to do is add two cups of vinegar to an empty machine and run it with hot water for one cycle. This should take care of any mineral deposits due to hardwater.

Washing Soda Vs. Baking Soda: Real Simple's site explains that you can use both washing soda and baking soda as the soda for your detergent. The difference is that washing soda is not as gentle on your clothing as baking soda. I've used both, and am opting for regular baking soda to help extend the life of my garments since my clothes don't get too soiled. But if you're dealing with extra dirty loads, using washing soda may be best for you.

Fragrances: You can add your own natural essential oils to keep your clothes smelling fresh, they're safer than the questionable ones found in brand names like Tide, and you can tailor the scent to your liking. I like Woolzies Jasmine oil, but find one you'll enjoy, and get creative. Find what makes you feel most at home.

Easy, DIY Fabric Softener: The Spruce suggests that you can use a 1/2cp of vinegar as a natural fabric softer. It's cheap and a natural alternative to brand-name softeners which are loaded with chemicals.

Measuring Your Detergent: Using a dedicated tablespoon to measure your detergent, one you keep in your container, can help you use the correct amount every time. You can buy one that's special to you, or repurpose one from an old coffee container or one you have laying around. Get creative.

DIY Container: Since we're making our detergent, why not make something fun to put it in? Making your own container can be a great way of make laundry time visually more enjoyable. Here are some photos of one I made out of an old Le Parfait jar and a label I drew and taped to the front. I get a sense of joy every time I see it : )

 

Cleaning Up

And that's it friends. A simple, non-toxic method for making your own detergent that is environmentally friendly, and a way to support your local businesses. I hope you've found this article useful in making your coziest home, and I'd love to hear your thoughts and comments below. And if you feel so inclined, share this recipe on social media. Peace, & thanks for reading 🏔️🌙

*I took Tide's suggested detergent measurements per load as a control and used the same measurement per load for the homemade detergent. To determine the price per load, I took the price from Tide's product, Tide Powder Laundry Detergent, Original Scent, at $26.99 at Wegman's, and divided that by 113 loads, the number of total loads printed on the packaging, to get the price per load of ¢23. To get the detergent amount per load, I took the total weight of Tide's product, 143oz, and divided that by the number of loads the box contains as printed on the packaging label, 113 loads, to get the amount of detergent used per load, which is 1.27oz/Tbsp. One ounce equals one Tbsp, dry or liquid.


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